Route: Zagreb → Plitvice Lakes National Park → Split → Dubrovnik
Transport: Rental car from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, then local transport and walking
Travel style Keywords: Couple, high season, nature, history, photography
Pace: Active, but with weather buffers
Why I Recommend Renting a Car?
I highly recommend renting a car for this Croatia itinerary, mainly because it gives you so much more freedom. Although buses run from Zagreb, Zadar, and Split to Plitvice Lakes, traveling by car makes it much easier to coordinate your park visit with bus schedules, different entrances, and accommodations scattered around the area. We could adjust our plans around the weather, explore without watching the clock, and leave for Split whenever we were ready.
The drive from Split to Dubrovnik was another highlight. While the scenic D8 coastal road takes closer to four and a half hours without stops compared to fastest route with 3.5 hours. I would still choose the slower route—and give it most of the day—because the sea views and spontaneous stops are what make this drive so memorable. Being able to pull over whenever a beach, viewpoint, or seaside town caught our eye made the journey feel like part of the adventure.
Once you arrive in Dubrovnik, I recommend returning the car because the Old Town is pedestrian-only and parking can be difficult. One-way rentals are available and reasonably priced, so you can pick up the car in Zagreb and drop it off in Dubrovnik without backtracking. For two people, we found it both convenient and surprisingly economical.
What to Book in Advance for Summer
For travel between summer time:
- Flights — around 3–6 months ahead: Book earlier if you need specific open-jaw flights, but there is no reliable universal “best” booking date.
- Accommodation — around 3–6 months ahead: Book early for well-located or distinctive stays in Dubrovnik and near Plitvice; ordinary rooms may still be available later.
- Rental car — around 1–3 months ahead: Allow more time if you need an automatic car or a one-way Zagreb-to-Dubrovnik rental.
- Plitvice tickets — several days to 2 weeks ahead: Entry is limited by entrance and time slot. Book earlier for July and August or if your schedule is inflexible. The park recommends advance purchase but does not prescribe a specific lead time. Official ticket information
- Blue Cave tour — 1 week ahead: Book earlier only if you want a particular operator, a small group, or a weekend departure. Prioritize flexible rebooking or refunds because weather can close the cave.

Day 1: One-Day City Walk in Zagreb
Zagreb was originally meant to be a quick stop on our way to Plitvice, but the city ended up being a lovely surprise. After parking near the center, we crossed Ban Jelačić Square and wandered through Dolac Market before continuing toward the Upper Town.
Most of the main sights were close enough to connect on foot, including Zagreb Cathedral, Stone Gate, St. Mark’s Church, and Lotrščak Tower. I especially loved the colorful tiled roof of St. Mark’s Church—it was one of those places that looked even better in person than in photographs.
We also stopped for burek along the way, which made the walk feel less like sightseeing and more like a relaxed afternoon in the city. After four or five hours, we returned to the car and drove to Plitvice, already very glad that we had not skipped Zagreb.

Day 1 · Zagreb’s central sights fit comfortably into our four-to-five-hour walking route
Day 2: The Plitvice Day We Did Not Use
We had planned to enter Plitvice early in the morning, but we woke up to light rain, gray skies, and poor visibility. The rain itself was not especially heavy, but the flat light made the lakes look completely different from what we had hoped to photograph.
Rather than forcing the visit, we decided to stay near the park and save our tickets for the following morning. Spending two nights near Plitvice was one of the best choices in our itinerary. It gave us enough flexibility to wait without changing the rest of the trip, and the difference the next morning made the decision completely worthwhile.
Day 3: Route H at Plitvice
The next morning felt like a completely different season. The clouds had cleared, the sun was out, and the colors of the lakes finally appeared—the water was bright, transparent, and almost unreal in places.
Starting from Entrance 2, we made our way through the Upper Lakes before crossing Lake Kozjak by boat and continuing toward the Lower Lakes and Veliki Slap. Much of the route worked downhill, so the walk never felt especially difficult, although we often had to turn around to catch the best views of the waterfalls behind us.
The Upper Lakes were easily my favorite part. We could see branches and stones beneath the clear water, and tiny blue dragonflies hovered beside the boardwalks. I had never seen dragonflies that color before, and they became one of my strongest memories of Plitvice. We left the park at around 3pm and arrive to Split around 6pm.


Day 4: Diocletian’s Palace and Modern Split
What fascinated me most about Split was that Diocletian’s Palace did not feel like a separate archaeological site. The old Roman structures were filled with restaurants, shops, apartments, and people going about their normal day, so ancient history and modern life seemed to overlap everywhere we looked.
We joined a walking tour, which made the palace much easier to understand. One of the most interesting details was learning that the central part of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius had originally been built as Emperor Diocletian’s mausoleum before later becoming a Christian cathedral.
We also climbed Saint Domnius Bell Tower. From the top, we could see the palace, the modern rooftops, the mountains, and the sea all at once.


Day 5: Blue Cave and a Five-Island Speedboat Tour
We booked through GetYourGuide, and was an approximately 8-hour Blue Cave and five-island (including Hvar and several of the standard stops around Biševo, Vis, Stiniva Cove, Budikovac, and the Pakleni Islands).
Entry depends on sea conditions. We were fortunate: the angle and movement of the water at the cave were calm enough for boats to enter that morning.
After entering Blue Cave, the guide joked that someone had installed an LED light underwater. The color really did look artificial. It is created by sunlight entering through an underwater opening and reflecting off the pale seabed.
The trip back to Split was a completely different experience. The waves were much rougher, and from the last row the boat felt like a roller coaster. We were wet, windblown, and exhausted when we returned, but we were also laughing. It was chaotic, slightly ridiculous, and still one of our favorite days.

Day 5 · It was sunlight entering from below the surface.
Day 6: Driving the Coast from Split to Dubrovnik
We left Split and drove south toward Dubrovnik, following the Adriatic coast for much of the journey. This was one of those drives where the road itself became part of the trip, because beautiful sea views kept appearing around the bends.
We crossed the Pelješac Bridge, which allowed us to remain within Croatia rather than following the older route through the coastal section of Bosnia and Herzegovina near Neum. We took our time and stopped whenever the scenery made us want to pause, so the drive felt more like a final coastal excursion than a simple transfer day.
Once we arrived in Dubrovnik, we returned the rental car immediately. Cars cannot enter the Old Town, and parking nearby would have been expensive and inconvenient. After several days on the road, it felt good to leave the car behind and know that we could explore everything on foot.

Day 6 · The drive south was one reason we chose a rental car
Day 7: Old Pharmacy and Franciscan Church
Our first full day in Dubrovnik was intentionally slow. Instead of trying to fit several major attractions into one day, we focused on the Franciscan Monastery complex inside the Old Town.
The historic pharmacy was the main reason we visited. It was founded in 1317 and is considered one of the oldest continuously operating pharmacies in Europe. Afterward, we spent some time inside the Franciscan Church and wandered around the surrounding streets.
That was essentially the whole plan for the day. It was quiet and unhurried, which felt surprisingly good after several days of driving, tours and boats.
Day 8: Iconic Places in a ROLL
This was the day we finally walked Dubrovnik’s city walls, with beautiful views over the Old Town’s red rooftops, the Adriatic, and Lokrum.
We also joined a GuruWalk that combined Dubrovnik’s history with stories from the filming of Game of Thrones. The guide explained how production crews worked around a living city, sometimes closing gates and moving equipment under tight time limits. Several filming locations appeared naturally along the Old Town route rather than feeling like separate stops.
Inside the Rector’s Palace, now home to Dubrovnik’s Cultural History Museum, we explored the former government rooms, courtroom, chapel, and rector’s private apartment. One exhibition that stayed with us was Božidar Gjukić: War Photographs 1991–1992. Its images documented the bombardment, damage to buildings, and the difficult conditions faced by local residents. The contrast between the palace’s older history and Dubrovnik’s much more recent wartime experience made the visit especially powerful.

Day 8 · The view from Dubrovnik’s walls
Day 9: SkyBike Above Dubrovnik
We spent our final day above Dubrovnik on Mount Srđ, starting with SkyBike Dubrovnik I felt nervous when I first saw the suspended bicycle, but once the harness was secured and we started moving, it felt much less frightening than it looked. With the Old Town, the Adriatic, and the surrounding hills behind us, it was easily one of the most unusual—and most fun—photo opportunities of the trip.
While we were on the mountain, we also visited Fort Imperial and the Homeland War Museum. The exhibition uses photographs, documents, maps, weapons, and video footage to explain Dubrovnik’s experience during the 1991–1995 war. After seeing the war photographs at the Rector’s Palace the previous day, visiting the fort added even more context and made us appreciate the peaceful view over Dubrovnik in a completely different way.




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